The best, the brightest, and most budget-friendly LED Headlights!

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Our company Jeep, in its early build-stages, features our LED light bars and auxiliary LED fog lamps.  Visit our IG page @jdm_astar to see its current state.

With so many options online and many local sources, it can be a bit of a challenge for you to determine what the best headlight option for your car is.  Whether you are working on a domestic vehicle, Asian or any European type, we devised this article to help you gain a bit of knowledge on our top performance LED replacement headlights for your car based off your preference in either highest intensity replacement, optimal lighting and performance results, and an option that offers the greatest value offered.

Best Headlight for Intensity

So you are in the market for some new lighting on your headlamps as the factory ones are old and worn out, not bright enough for you, or you just prefer a modern slick look on your car.  For those seeking brilliance, our NX series LED headlights are rated the highest and are also the way to go!

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Pick up your set of NX LED Headlights on JDMASTAR.COM and use code JDM ASTAR to save on your purchase.

The NX series headlights come from our heat sink lineup and are equipped with Samsung 2nd generation CSP chips.  Single beam lamps use 8 CSP chips whereas dual beam lamps provide a total of 16 chips or 2 sets of 8 diodes to provide a function for the high beam application.

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Quality guaranteed with Samsung 2nd Gen. CSP chips on our NX Series Headlights.

Whether your NX headlights are dual or single beam lamps, the intensity provided is rated at 5,000 lumens per bulb.  Increase the intensity by 3’x the rated lumens of a brand new premium halogen bulb.  If your halogen bulbs have already experienced some wear and depreciated, the intensity difference will be night and day with NX Series!

 

 

They also offer an all-in-one design for a simple installation without any concern of having to mount or secure a driver harness.  Since they use heat sinks, no concern for any mechanical fan noise.

 

Best Performance & Results All Around

You need to upgrade your headlights to something better but do not want to settle for anything but the best.  You want the best performance but also need maximum efficiency.  You want the highest quality but also need durability.  If you agree to any of these, the best choice for you are our 8th Generation Headlights.  These are our flagship model headlights and currently have a pending US Patent.

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JDM Astar’s flagship model headlights are…the 8th Gen Headlights!

The 8th Generation headlights are equipped with 8 Luxeon ZES chips from Lumileds.  This manufacture is a subdivision brand by Phillips that develop, produce, and design light emitting diodes.  They supply a percentage of the worlds demand for lighting and light sources not just in the automotive industry.  This is a brand you can trust and is also a brand we utilize on our products as we are confident the quality offered by Lumileds will ensure our clients satisfaction and loyalty.

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“The 8th Generation headlights are equipped with 8 Luxeon ZES chips from Lumileds.”

 

The 8th Generation headlights are not our brightest option but definitely one of the brightest and much more powerful over the factory lamps.  They are rated at 4,000 lm per bulb whether the headlight is a single beam or dual beam headlamp.  They offer adjust-ability to achieve results you need in any vehicle housing whether domestic, Asian, or European.  With an external driver harness, you can expect highest efficiency known to LED tech to be maintained for over 30,000 hours of operating life span.  That equates to over 5 years depending on often you drive at night!  The heat sink can also be reversed for even more customization.

If any investment is to be made on your vehicles lighting, the 8th Generation Headlights are most certainly the best choice.  Like any investment made, your profit or return will be your satisfaction, confidence in using our 8th Gen LED headlights in your car, long life expectancy, lighting results you want and need, and security for you and your passengers safety while operating your vehicle at night.

Best Bang for the Buck!

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T1 Headlights are exclusively available on Amazon.com. Search ASIN # B07FDS39X5.

Working on a budget when you have a car build or just need to upgrade your headlights is now possible with our T Series Headlights.  We understand having a budget can delay the time before you obtain your car parts, or can prevent you from getting your preferred choice that does what you want.

With our T series headlights, you have options!  Our T1 headlights are one of the most powerful headlights that combats the NX series.  With the same 5,000 lumen intensity rating as the NX headlights, the T1’s will save you money so that you can invest on other lamps on the car such as your interior or even your high beams.  The high velocity fan provides maximum cooling for the entire bulb including the custom diodes we use on this lamp.

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T2 headlights are available for Amazon buyers and Amazon Prime members. Look up Amazon ASIN B07MKZFBZY.

For an additional $20 USD, you can also kick it up a notch to our T2 headlights.  These are an upgrade to the T1’s and will push intensity even further with a rating of 6,000lm per bulb.  The light sources are designed and manufactured by Edison and are there DF-4BS series diodes which means maximum thermal resistance, high lumen-to-wattage ratio, and maximum output!

They also feature an external driver to prevent the added heat from the higher intensity from affecting the driver circuit.  This combined with the density of the 6063 aluminum body makes this one of our most reliable fan style LED headlight replacement option.

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T2 series headlights provide the most compact fan allowing it to fit in the most limited housing areas.

 

Solutions for Your Car…and the Driver!

When you are in the need of a replacement headlamp, and do not want to settle for less, be limited to 1 design option, prefer to steer away from mechanical fans, or want the best of the best for your car, JDM Astar not only has your ride covered, but we take care of the driver too!

With options that cater to both the car and driver, it is no question as to why JDM Astar is the world’s leading lighting solution for your automotive vehicles lighting.

cropped-jdm-star-logo.pngJDM Astar…lighting up your world one car at a time!

 

 

 

Using LED headlights with complex headlamp systems

Automotive vehicles have come a long way from how they were first manufactured. Safety belts were not a requirement.  Fuel injection systems did not exist, and many cars had a lot of weight to run all the electrical systems on the cars such as the car lighting.

 

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With how much technology has evolved, it has most certainly improved cars and how they are manufactured today.

In this article, we are covering some of the most common systems that did not exist in earlier model vehicles, but are present in almost every car today.  These systems tend to be finicky with any change or problem the vehicle does not understand and so we devised this guide to help you remedy any problems you run into with vehicles that are sourcing from the systems mentioned here.

 

Pulse Width Modulation Signals

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Example of Pulse Width Modulation with high and low average voltage.

 

Pulse Width Modulation or PWM for short is a system intended to help extend of the operating life expectancy of traditional filament bulb.    PWM pulses the electrical signal to the circuit on and off at certain voltage ranges and time.  This system is used with automotive vehicles as it helps reduce heat generated by the filament bulb.  PWM can also be utilized to provide a form of dimming for an LED lighting application.  Unfortunately, due to the voltage ranges supplied by an automotive PWM signal, it creates other problems other issues that may have some scratching there heads.  As it is, an LED replacement lamp reduces heat outputted by up to 40% so using a PWM signal with an LED headlight will not have any effect on operating temperatures aside from making the lamp behave abnormally.

 

How PWM affects an aftermarket LED headlight

A PWM signal rapidly turns low or high voltage signals on and off. In the auto industry, it’s very common to see low voltage PWM.  With a filament bulb, this system can also be used to reduce voltage to the circuit and provide a method of dimming down a filament bulb and turn it into what we all call a “Daytime Running Light’.

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Flickering followed by automatic shut-off are signs of a PWM signal on the low beam circuit. (Photo Cred: Youtube Creator “Justin Buice” / Follow IG @justinbuice)

For an aftermarket LED headlight, it typically leads to one more of the following:

1) Flickering behavior that seems to go from a dim to high at a fast rate.

2) OBC (On Board Computer) faults or codes indicating a lamp is out.

3) Automatic shut off of the LED headlight as voltage exhausts from the circuit.

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Lamp out faults can be triggered with an aftermarket LED headlight installed to a vehicle that uses PWM.

To help bypass this signal, there are various modules, or harnesses (that most refer to as “Anti Flicker” or even “Error Cancellers”) on the market today that can be used to bypass. The module must offer internal capacitance in order to ensure the signal is not directly affecting the LED headlight circuit.

 

How to bypass a PWM signal:

 

  • Utilize our decoder module which introduces an inline capacitor. Voltage signals are sent to the capacitor, allowing it to charge, which then supplies a steady and supported voltage of 9V+ DC to the LED lamp circuit resulting in normal and full lighting capacity.
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Decoders do not require any wire-tapping and will easily adapt to any automotive LED headlight and vehicles factory headlamp harness.

 

Totally Integrated Power Modules

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“Some of the most common vehicle makes that use a TIPM are Dodge, Ram, Jeep, and Chrysler.”

These acronyms just seem to be getting longer as automotive technology improves.  A Totally Integrated Power Module (or TIPM for short) is a module that uses various fuses and relay modules that control power going to various applications on the vehicle such as the engine control unit, transmission, drivetrain, electrical systems, audio, fuel delivery system, ignition and just about any main application present on the vehicle that is powered by the vehicles alternator.

 

 

A TIPM is a power distribution control box that takes and sends commands from almost every electrical system on the vehicle in the form of voltage or ground.

 

 

 

For those experienced or ASE certified mechanics, this is probably nothing new, but for those new to automotive LED looking for some knowledge, a TIPM system is similar to a circuit breaker but with a bit more control.  If this trips, whatever circuit is open will cease any function and no power will be sent.  Similar concept with TIPM.  If a relay module fails or does not receive a proper signal, it may affect other circuits tied to the relay module and so this leads us to how LEDs tend to affect these types of systems and what these systems may do to your aftermarket LED headlights.

A TIPM system will indirectly share the same ground to various circuits.  By introducing an LED headlight replacement to the main lighting application, such as the low beams, the resistance value, amperage, and load simulation will also change on the circuit.  This is where you tend to see problems occur as the TIPM is not receiving a proper signal and with the change to the load, and resistance, whatever other circuits that are indirectly connected to your low beams, through the same ground, may also be affected.  This is where the vehicle responds negatively to the LED headlights in order to protect the circuit as well as allow the other functions tied to the low beams to work like normal such as a parking light, or tail light that turn on together along with your main low beam lamps.

 

How TIPM affects an aftermarket LED headlight

For TIPM system, you almost never see any problem when you install your new LEDs to your vehicle.  It is not until the ignition switch is in the ON position, engine is turned over (usually when OBC kicks in) that the TIPM system will engage and the problem will present itself.

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“Decoders provide a 10W load increase….help remedy lamp out faults or codes stating the lamp is out.”

Some signs of a vehicle with TIPM can be:

  • Lamp out indication light stating a lamp is out.
  • Sudden flicker that occurs at random between each LED lamp and typically have a pattern on the behavior.
  • LED headlights do not power on when the low beam switch is engaged to the ‘ON’ position.
  • Cuts power to the headlamp circuit and results in a flicker behavior for about 2 seconds and shuts off automatically.

 

To remedy any of the above issues, you may utilize the same Decoders used to bypass signal changes with circuits that have PWM signals.  The same internal capacitor will increase amperage on start up due to the charge of the internal capacitor and provide a supported DC current to the LED headlights as well as read back to the TIPM that a lamp is working here as it normally should.  The decoders provide a 10W load increase due to the resistors that are built into the module.  This alone will help remedy lamp out faults or codes stating the headlight is out.  Some of the most common vehicle makes that are notorious for using a TIPM system are Dodge, Ram, Jeep, and Chrysler.  It’s rare to see this type of system on foreign vehicles but with how beneficial a TIPM system is on these type of cars, it is no question as to when other vehicle makers will begin utilizing the same or a similar system.

 

Voltage Changes with Daytime Running Light (DRL) Circuits

FRS daytime running lights

Most Japanese model vehicle utilize the same high beam circuit to operate the Daytime Running Light.

 

A daytime running light is an automotive lamp that provides front head lighting for an automotive vehicle and is primarily used to increase a vehicles noticeability making it easier for other drivers to see your vehicle at a distance.  These lamps tend to emit a white, warm white, or amber light.  DRLs can be tied to turn signal or headlamp circuits.

 

For turn signal circuits, the DRL function tends to be the same as the turn signal circuit allowing you to obtain the same light intensity as your turn signals during the day while your main low beam lamps are off.

Various Japanese vehicles have the DRL function tied to the high beams, and others are separate.  For vehicles that have dedicated DRL’s, the current supplied from the vehicle is usually around 12V DC and therefore supported by the LED lamp.

 

How Daytime Running Lights affect your LED bulbs

When you have those vehicles that run a high beam along with a DRL, on the same circuit, there tends to be a negative reaction from the LED headlights you install.  This is mainly due to the amount of voltage supplied while the DRL is engaged.

Some of the most common negative behaviors are mentioned below as well as why it occurs:

  • LED Headlights do not power on. The voltage the DRL circuit supplies is not enough to power on the LED headlight.  Most aftermarket LED headlights require 6.7V+ to show any sign of light and 9V+ to light on at full capacity.
  • Flickering that will not stop while the DRL is on. The voltage tends to be unsupported or too low.  Flickering occurs when voltage is still not high enough and usually between the ranges of 4.5V-6V DC.
  • Odd flicker behavior that appears to go from a low to high intensity light very fast. Light never fully shuts off with this behavior so no flickering, however, it does create a strobe effect.  This is due to a ‘pulse voltage’ signal where the voltage dips slightly but still not high enough to keep the lamp on steady.  The voltage supplied tends to pulse on/off very fast and usually has a range of 10V-12V which is why the LEDs show no signs of loss in light intensity.
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Daytime Running Lights are an added safety measure for driver noticeability during day time driving.

Bypassing DRL issues is very simple and depending on what category your vehicles DRL falls under will determine which of the following will be the best solution for your vehicles DRL with LED installed:

  • DRL circuits that are shared to a headlamp can utilize a Decoder harness to help bypass any flickering behavior. The light intensity, however, tends to have a small reduction and usually a small decrease in light intensity compared to the high beam.
  • Dedicated DRLs typically provide a steady current of 12V, however, they also tend to be tied to other circuits such a parking light. Error codes tend to be triggered or a dashboard light indicating the DRL is out.  Utilizing a pre-wired inline resistor harness or wiretapping universal resistors to the existing ground and lead wires of the socket harness will correct the lamp out indicators.
  • DRL circuits that utilize a pulsing voltage can use a decoder as well. The module will prevent the voltage change from directly affecting the LEDs through the internal IC driver and thus remedy any flicker behavior.  Light intensity tends to reduce slightly and this is due to how voltage is being supplied from the vehicle.
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Pulse voltage signals are common on Toyota and Subaru vehicles equipped with daytime running light applications.  (Cred. SlammedEnuff / IG: @frslow_armani)

 

Other Methods to Resolve Daytime Running Light Problems

Decoders are by far the best option to try and should always be the first to utilize on the vehicle as they are easier to install.

For those vehicles that do not accept an inline decoder module and still show the same problems then there is still hope.

Some of those solutions can be:

  • Flashing your vehicles software. This can be costly as some vehicles are only possible to flash through a local vehicle dealer.  If you are not prepared to cover any costs involved then this may not be the best solution for you.

There are also various 3rd party softwares that can be downloaded to a mobile smartphone device that will communicate to a wireless Bluetooth OBD reader.  The OBD reader connects to the OBD connector which then talks to your smartphone through the same software that is downloaded.   An example would be apps such as ‘Bimmercode’ and ‘Carly’ that allow you to code certain functions on the vehicle and it’s typically not just limited to lighting.  This type of solution is geared towards experienced DIY individuals or professionals as there is coding involved and extra tools are necessary in order to allow you to flash your vehicle.  With this option, you are essentially programming your vehicle that way you want it to be such as how you want your signals to flash, or disable the DRL function on your car.

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Unfortunately, we do not have specialize with programming vehicles but can certainly help you find sources that can better assist you.  Again, it’s not recommended to everybody but certainly an option to consider as it’s not as costly as going to a local dealer.

Other workarounds for DRL problems:

  • Taking it old school with a relay wiring harness. Using a wiring harness is very common to see with HID conversion kits.  Since ballasts do not support all headlamp circuits, the relay wiring harness is used to bypass the connection to the factory headlamp harness and allows the lamps to be wired directly to the 12V battery.  There is also a 40A fuse on these harnesses to protect your battery as well as the lamps from any short circuits so there will be peace of mind on using this type of part.
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“Disabling a DRL function can be as easy as cutting or de-pinning a wire that connects directly to the ECU.”

  • “DRL Delete”. Some vehicle makes allow the main console/head unit to edit there daytime running light settings and these are usually common with vehicles manufactured in countries where Daytime Running Lights are required by law such as Canada.  Certain European cars may also have this function but its best to contact a local dealer on how to go about changing how the DRL function works or yet alone how to make the changes and if its possible on your model vehicle and year.

There are also other more technical methods of disabling the DRL system as well.  We cannot go into detail as every vehicle is a bit different but for vehicles such as Tacoma’s, disabling a DRL function is as easy as cutting or de-pinning a wire that connects directly to the ECU(Not all vehicle makes).  Lastly, you can also contact a local dealer so that they may reprogram the vehicle.  Certain manufacturers program there vehicles to have a DRL function to accommodate for local laws and regulations and do require a DRL on the vehicle at all times.  They can also disable the DRL function all together eliminating any possibility for voltage changes from making the LEDs behave abnormally.

Using LED headlights can be something new for most and if you are ever not certain on whether or not such systems are present, give the guys at JDM a call.  Our friendly technical support team have hands-on experiencing on how to remedy these types of systems.  We can help alleviate the frustration behind a flickering headlight or save you some labor with your new LED headlight installation so if you have any concerns or just need some guidance, contact the car lighting pros!  And remember….

“LED JDM Astar light your way down the road!”

-JDM ASTAR Team

9 Things You Should Avoid When Upgrading to LEDs!

Ever had that situation where you buy an LED headlight online and go to install it only to damage the bulb either because there was not enough room or the connectors did not match?

Have you run into other problems where you wish you knew so that you can avoid this and save the trouble?  It can be related to getting pulled over, bulb size of your LEDs was off, or possibly a bulb that did not do any justice on lighting performance based off information you found online.

We have experienced our own situations when we first started using LEDs and so we want to pass some knowledge to you that we wish we knew before attempting our first LED install.

Here are 9 Things You Should Not Do With Your LEDS.

Do not attempt to install the wrong bulb size.

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On the left is a bayonet 27W incandescent bulb. On the right is our T25 Wedge type 3020 13-SMD White LED bulbs.

We have all been there before!  This can be very tedious experience especially on vehicles that have intensive labor involved just to gain access to the lamps.  Before attempting any installation, always check the connectors of your LEDs and compare to the connectors of the factory bulbs.  You can save yourself a lot of time and labor through this simple practice.

Most cars do not require intensive labor to simply check the headlight socket or bulb connectors.

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Correct bayonet sized LED bulb to replace the 27W incandescent bulb.

Also, check reliable sources that come directly from your vehicles manufacturer.  The owner’s manual and the factory bulbs are two of the most reliable sources that will help identify the size you need for your vehicle.  If you are not sure, the guys at JDM Astar can guide you.

 

Do not use the illegal colored lights on the road.

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Backup lamps are required to be white or warm white in most states.

Ever drive around a law enforcement vehicle with blue fog lights?  Have you come across other cars that have similar colored blue lamps?  Please do not do this!  In some states, certain colors and color temperatures are illegal for automotive road use.  A good example is using some blue lamps that impersonate a law enforcement vehicle, or any lamps that you see often on emergency type vehicles such as flashing/strobe white/red lights.

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Blue lamps are recommended best for show cars or off road vehicles.

Always consult your states local laws and regulations about legal color temperatures to be using for specific lighting applications like turn signals, backup lights, headlights, and fog lights.  If you are not sure what to use, just stick to the original color that the vehicle used from the manufacturer and you will be fine.

 

Do not leave any connections exposed when wiring an LED lamp or other LED components to your vehicle.

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A wire tap that is made to supply power to an auxiliary lamp must be sealed to protect against moisture contact.

Oxidation is a pain.  It can lead to shortages and in some cases lead to damages to the vehicle.  If you are working with light bars, any rock lights, or some unique LED auxiliary lamps, always seal up your connections that are not in a sealed housing.  This can also apply to other aspects such as wiring in a load resistor to bypass hyper flash.

Resistors are typically left outside of the lamp housings to prevent the heat from affecting the LEDs.  This applies to both universal resistors and pre-wired resistor harnesses.  This, unfortunately, exposes the connection to environment and so you want to seal up the connections or taps made.  Leaving them exposed is asking for trouble and may lead to rusted metal parts or possibly cause a short in the vehicles lamp circuit.

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Connections that are left outside of the lamp housing are exposed to moisture and are prone to oxidation if not sealed properly.

If you are converting from a factory HID to an aftermarket LED lamp then you should also seal up any taps made that are left outside of a housing.

 

Do not let your resistors or decoders just hang out!

In the automotive industry, the purpose of a load resistor is to trick a car circuit into detecting the power draw of a normal filament bulb.  In reality, you are actually using a 5W LED bulb combined with a 20W resistor is similar, if not the same, to the original bulb which typically have a wattage range of 20W-25W on turn signal applications.

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Resistors installed to a vehicle must be mounted to prevent direct contact to the resistor unit.

Like your factory bulb, these resistors draw a lot of power but rather then using it for a specific function, they simply burn it.  This translates to a lot of heat and by leaving the resistors dangling, it will melt any plastic components in the area that it has prolonged contact with.  If the resistor units have prolonged contact to a painted metal surface, of the car, the paint will eventually bubble up and damage and even affect the primer.  If the resistors touch non-metal material, you can expect smoke or burning smells in the area or whatever it contacts as resistors can run average temperatures as high as 235° F.

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“The weight may pull down on the LED headlight its connected to which will cause wear on any solder connections”

For decoders (some refer to them as CAN bus decoders, anti-flicker harnesses, Error Cancellers, etc), they do not run as hot, however, they are a lot heavier.  The weight, combined with road vibrations, may pull down on the LED headlight its connected to which causes unnecessary wear on any solder connections by the butt of the bulb.  Through time, and heat outputted by the fan/heat sink, this will eventually lead to a problem within the bulbs circuit.  Always mount them down to keep them from dangling all over the place or from potentially damaging your LED headlight bulbs as well as other parts in the area.

 

Do not use the incorrect type of LED bulb for the vehicles application.

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H11 80W High Power LED bulb designed to replace a 20W-35W fog light. On the right is an H11 55W Halogen bulb which are commonly found on low beam lamps.

Ever install a standard 5W LED fog light LED replacement bulb to replace a 55W halogen fog light and the results are no where near as bright as what you had?  What about installing this style LED bulb into a headlight type application to replace a 55W halogen bulb only to be disappointed by the results?

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Using this type of LED bulb as a headlight will actually reduce lighting results since the bulb is designed for driving or fog lamps which typically use a 20W-35W halogen bulb.

There is reasoning behind this and it’s mainly due to the wattage or type of bulb the vehicle is using and the type of LED bulb you are trying to use in order to replace it.

Here is a cheat sheet that will provide a reference on the suggested type of LED replacement to be using based off the wattage of the factory incandescent/halogen bulb(s).

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Let’s take a Honda Accord as an example.  Accords typically use an H8 12V 55W Halogen bulb.  A halogen bulb with a wattage range of 55W is commonly found on headlight applications for most vehicles on the market and essentially labels this type of bulb as a headlight replacement.  If you install an LED replacement bulb that has a wattage range of 5W (intended for running/fog lamps) to replace the 55W factory bulb( that happens to be a headlight) then results you want may not be what you expect. The factory lamps can be expected to be brighter simply because it uses more power.  Now, if you try a 25W ‘LED HEADLIGHT’ (uses a fan or passive heat sinks) to replace a 55W halogen bulb then the results can be expected to be brighter with your LEDs.

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“A good tip is that any halogen bulb that’s above 50W should be using an LED replacement that runs a fan or passive thermal heat sink.”

Always understand what the wattage range of your factory bulbs are to know what type of LED bulb you should be using on that particular lamp.  This mainly applies to front head lighting such as fogs, lows, highs, or dual beam headlights.  If you are not sure what LED to go for, just look at the wattage of the original bulb and reference the guide above.  A good tip is that any halogen bulb that’s above 50W should be using an LED replacement that runs a cooling fan or a passive thermal heat sink.

And of course, you can always reach out to the guys at JDM for any guidance on the LED replacement that you should be using for that application.

Never run an LED replacement right next to a filament bulb that is not isolated in the lamp housing.

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“When you have two filament bulbs that are setup in the housing this way, you should almost always have to replace both bulbs if you upgrade any to LED.”

A lot of vehicle housings, whether they’re front headlamp lighting or rear tail lighting tend to use 3-5 bulbs per housing and are typically isolated from the others such as turn signals, and headlights.    For those vehicles that run more than 1 bulb in the same housing and area, where the two bulbs are not isolated like a turn and low beam headlight, you never want to replace only 1 of those bulbs to an LED but rather both.

When you have two filament bulbs that are setup in the same housing this way, you should almost always have to replace both bulbs if you upgrade any to LED.  You must understand that LED technology has ALWAYS had a heat threshold as they are computer components/electronics, and like any electronic device, they do not like heat!  When you run an LED bulb right next to a filament bulb, there will be two heat sources in the housing one of the being substantially higher than what the other can handle.  The LED is capable of resisting temperatures generated by the LED bulb itself which means the increased heat of the filament bulb its sitting next to will have a major impact on the LED circuit and driver performance.  The heat outputted by an incandescent or halogen bulb is typically 2-3 times higher compared to its LED counterpart.  This is due to the amount of power driven to the bulb.  The heat outputted by the filament bulb will stress the diodes and IC driver.  Once temperatures begin to climb above the threshold, it may cause the LED bulb to fail prematurely.  The IC driver will first pulse the signal to the LED circuit in order to save the diodes but if temperatures continue to climb or stay excessively high then the driver will eventually cease or the increased temperatures may burn the diodes on the chips which my begin to brown up.

Always replace both bulbs to LED so that the amount of heat outputted by the two bulbs is maintained to a minimal in order to allow the LED to operate at its optimal temperatures.

 

Never leave your headlight housings exposed to the elements such as moisture.

Luckily, this does not affect all halogen bulbs/housings.  Only specific sized halogen bulbs will use an o-ring or some type of gasket to provide a water proof seal for the headlamp housing.  When going over to an LED replacement headlight, the LED replacement typically uses the same seals or gaskets that the original bulbs use thus providing the same peace of mind in protection of the housing against any moisture breach.

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H7 headlight housing using a fan style LED headlight that is physically too large to allow the factory cover to be replaced.

What about for those unique sizes that do not have gaskets such as H1, H3 or H7?  Well, you do not want to leave these exposed!  These housings tend to utilize a poly carbonate dust cap, or rubber boot cover.  The purpose of the cover is to protect and seal the housing against moisture and unknown contaminants such a dust or debris.  When upgrading to an aftermarket LED headlight bulb, the factory covers usually do not have enough clearance to allow the LED headlight bulb to fit under it.  Most will usually leave this off.  Since the original bulb lacks an o-ring gasket, the LED will have the exact same setup so by leaving the cap off, you will be exposing the housings to the elements.

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For H1, H3, and H7 headlight housings, you CANNOT leave them exposes as this will introduce moisture to the housing.

There are a lot of aftermarket covers available online that allows the LED bulb to have more clearance to fit inside, however, the better options are those that allow the LEDs to breathe.  You can certainly use dust covers and seal up any of our LEDs, however, this may affect the operating temperatures.  Being exposed to air flow allows optimal cooling of the bulb and will ensure a long life so always keep that in mind.  The covers we recommend should allow the LED headlight bulbs fan or heat sink to be exposed.  The areas around the LED bulb or dust cover can easily be sealed up by using automotive silicone or some type of silicone adhesive that is weather proof and seals against moisture.  With this setup, you can expect the LEDs to operate at its optimal temperatures while still provide peace of mind of protecting the headlamp housing.  Lastly, an alternative is to modify the existing cover and seal up any exposed openings.  Of course, we always suggest leaving the original parts unmodified but for some, this may be the best and most cost effective solution.

 

If your vehicle is a daily driver or driven frequently, DO NOT SMOKE or TINT THE LENSES!

This is a no brainer and only benefit is that it looks cool.  This, unfortunately, only works for automotive trade shows or show cars.

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Smoked headlight lenses can reduce light penetration by up to 40% depending on the tint.

By jeopardizing the clarity of your headlights or tail lights lenses, it will compromise the intensity of the lamp, and in some cases, render any type of bulb useless and unsafe to use on the vehicle simply because it’s not bright enough to penetrate the tint.  Most will usually use a 60W HID system on a smoked headlight for that overkill output, but at that level of power, the innards of the headlight housings will be affected by the heat and eventually lead to warped housings or damages to the lens or reflective properties of the fixture in the long run.

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Dark tints are recommended for show only as they compromise headlamp brilliance, driver visibility and drive safety.

This is a big safety concern and definitely something we never suggest to do on a vehicle that’s frequently used on the road.  Most states do not have laws and regulations in place for smoking or tinting your lenses but if the lamps are not bright enough, or pose a safety concern to you or other motor vehicles then this is probable cause for law enforcement to pull you over and may write you a citation.

 

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Smoked tail lights make it virtually impossible to see a brake light during daylight resulting in risks of rear end collisions.

If you smoke up your tail lights, it’s the same safety risks but instead of compromising your visibility you are at risk of being rear ended by others behind you.  This one is worse as you have no control over the situation.  If somebody is speeding behind you, a smoked lenses will make it difficult for that driver to see you stopping at a distance.  With a dim tail and brake light, it’s hard for the driver to see you slowing down and well….you know what may happens next.

If law enforcement gets involved then the smoked lenses may also be clear evidence against you so keep those housings red and do not tint the headlights either.

 

Do not compromise your LED headlights cooling mechanism!

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LED headlights will reach a high temperature fairly quick if the LED lamp is used without any cooling such as a passive heat sink.

This applies to aftermarket LED headlights that have mechanical fans or feature a thermal passive heat sink for cooling.  These type of lamp require those cooling mechanisms as a form of removing heat directly from the diodes.  Heat will dissipate directly from the light source, through the metal body of the bulb, and exhaust at the heat sink or fan.  Some LED headlights on the market allow the heat sink to be removed such as our 8th Generation Headlights.  These features tend to provide versatility when trying to install to the vehicles headlamp housing.  For some housings, leaving the heat sink off allows the bulb to fit in the confined area, however, this is how the bulb cools down.  Without a way to dissipate, the diodes will eventually reach temperature that will compromise performance, efficiency, and shortens the life of the bulb.  Heat and LEDs do not mix which is why most will utilize some type of cooling mechanism, whether it’d be a mechanical fan, thermal heat sinks, or something new we have not yet heard of.  NEVER run an LED without any way of cooling it down.

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“Without a way to dissipate (heat), the diodes will eventually reach temperatures that will compromise performance, efficiency, and shortens the life of the diodes.”

Most importantly, do not block the bulbs ability to cool down.  Some housings use dust covers/caps which you can use with LED, however, operating temperatures tend to climb higher so it’s usually suggested to allow the LEDs to vent out all heat.  Avoid trying to cram the LEDs drivers into a confined space where air flow will be extremely limited as heat will affect the performance of the drivers once it reaches a high temperature.  There are many options for a replacement dust cover which will easily fit and work with most aftermarket LED headlights. For those finicky sizes like H1, and H3’s, you can always apply automotive silicon paste to help provide a seal in any areas that are exposed or may potentially leak moisture into the lamp housing area.

For questions or concerns on upgrading to LED lighting, JDM ASTAR is available Monday-Friday 9:30AM-5:30PM PST for all your car lighting needs.

Give the guys at JDM at call and they will gladly assist you to help ensure a seamless installation with any LED you install or any lighting upgrades made to the vehicle, and remember…

“LED JDM Astar light your way down the road!”

-JDM ASTAR Team

 

 

 

Easiest, Best and Most Effective Lighting Upgrades for ANY car!

Car lighting is an essential requirement for driving your motor vehicle at night or for road-driving safety.

With how popular and advanced aftermarket LED has become today, who’s to know what lights you should be upgrading first?  If you have a burnt out incandescent bulb then of course that would be the first to go, but for those seeking brilliance and/or performance lighting, what lighting mods should you do first?

In this article, we discuss the most effective upgrades that will provide night and day difference and improve driving experience, safety, driving noticeability and visibility.  This revolves mainly around cost effective upgrades to the simplest installations that require minimal labor and provide a major difference from what was in there before.  There is no given order as to what should be done first, however, these would be the better ones to try out for first LED install before deciding on converting the entire vehicle over to LED.

 

Maps & Dome Lights

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JDM Astar patented T10 PX 3-SMD (US Patent D814,666) LED bulbs installed to the map and dome lights of a 2016 Honda Accord LX

This is the most cost effective upgrade.  Most vehicles come included with cab lighting and will usually feature 2 lamps that sit on the roof of the vehicles cab and typically by the driver and passenger sides.  Picture yourself holding a map and whatever lamp throws light to that map would be the map. Map lights commonly use a T10 wedge type bulb (ex. 194, 168, W5W, etc) or festoon bulbs (ex. 578, DE3175, etc) and typically run $8-$15 for a pair.  There are also 10pks available that will upgrade both maps and even have spare bulbs for other lamps in the interior that run the same sized bulb.  Most vehicles will use a 5W incandescent that is limited to an average of 50-70 lumens per bulb whereas interior T10 LED bulbs produces an average of 75lm-220lm.

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Side by side comparison between DE3175 5W incandescent versus 31mm 3020 6-SMD CAN bus LEDs on the map lights of a later model Toyota.

Dome lighting is very common on sedans, coupes, sport utility vehicles and trucks as well as other commercial vehicles.  Dome lighting provides light coverage for a majority of the cab or interior of the vehicle and usually have 1 lamp.  Like map lights, dome lights will use an average 5W incandescent bulb.  An aftermarket festoon LED can produce results as high as 200lm making it the only necessary lamp to turn on for your interior as well as the most cost effective upgrade that anybody can do.

 

Replacing an interior map or dome light is simple and anybody can do it.  Most vehicles do not require special tools and you can upgrade your interiors main lamps for as a low as $30!  Interior lamps are the most effective and affordable upgrades that can be made for any vehicle.

 

Backup Lamps

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2016 Honda Accord LX upgraded backup lamps with patented design 921 GX-3020 18-SMD CAN bus LED bulbs (US Patent D815,762)

Backup lights are essential for safety when in reverse and as important as safety, the brilliance and visibility is also important.  Most vehicle manufacturers will use a T20 (ex. 7443), T25, (ex. 3157) or a smaller T15 (ex. 921) wedge type bulb to provide light while reversing your vehicle.  Most backup lamps have an average wattage of 20W-27W giving you a luminosity that ranges from 150lm-400lm and usually have a dull warm white look.

With aftermarket LED, you can play with your brilliance.  On the market, most backup LEDs average from 500lm-1000lm!  Some unique options such as our patent 921 3020 18-SMD LEDs will even change the pattern and light disbursement providing advantages such as wider beam pattern, and/or further reach making reversing your car that much easier!

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Raw image of a side by side comparison between our patented 921 GX-3020 18-SMD LEDs versus the factory 921 15W incandescent lamp.

For safety, it is not question as to why every car should have an upgraded backup light LED installed.

 

Headlights

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When LED first made its way into the auto industry, the options were limited but as new and innovative designs were released, you now have options to play with and are capable of offering better results over other aftermarket options such as High Intensity Discharge bulb.

Most vehicles run either a single beam bulb or a dual beam bulb to provide lighting for low beams or high beams.  Brand new single halogen beam bulbs have an average of 50W-55W providing about 1000lm-1400lm where as a dual beam bulb runs at 55W/65W (Lows/Highs) providing a similar rating for the low beam filament and increasing the intensity as the high beam filament engages.

Keep in mind, older technologies such as halogen or incandescent burn the filament inside the bulb causing wear through time and usage resulting in loss of light.  Your headlights will not appear the same in light intensity after 1 year of driving the vehicle.  For aftermarket LED headlight, however, it’s an entirely different story!

Most of our LED headlights provide an average luminosity of 3000lm-4000lm that practically doubles if not triples the output of the factory lighting.  The best thing about using JDM ASTAR headlights is that there are options not just for the car but options for the driver.  There is a solution for both car and driver regardless of your budget so if you ever have any questions and not too sure what you would like to upgrade first, contact the go to guys of LED lighting.  Hit up JDM ASTAR and they can guide you to answer any questions about car lighting and help you find the best lighting solution for your car.

JDM Astar

Lighting up your world….one car at a time!

-JDM ASTAR Team

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Understanding Lumen, Lux, and Candela

You just got a new car and are eager to throw in some new LED headlights.  You find a source and see ‘4000 lumens per bulb’ and are probably scratching your head wondering, “What are lumens?”

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This is a question we see often and it’s definitely something to be looking at when planning on upgrading any lamps to an aftermarket LED bulb.

First, you must understand that there is more than 1 method to measure light and certain methods call for a specific scenario in order to understand how to measure the light to give you an idea of what type of lighting results you will see.

The most common methods at measuring light are Lumens, Lux and Candela.

What are Lumens?

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Lumens is total amount of light emitted by the light source.

Lumens is the preferred method to measure light for most manufacturers that produce aftermarket LED products as this is the simplest to calculate for most and easiest to understand for any professional mechanic or auto enthusiast that is new to the industry.

Lumens is the unit of measure of light which provides a total rating for light that is visible to the human eye or the total amount of light emitted by the source for short.  A flash light can produce an average of 1000-1500 lumens which gives you an idea of how much it will throw.  Most of our LED headlights produce an average of 4,000 lumens and go as low as 2,000 lumens or as high as 6,000 lumens depending on the design and what you need for your vehicle.  Smaller LEDs for interior produce an average of 50-220 lumens.  For aftermarket LEDs, lumens is the total amount of light being emitted by the diodes.

What is Lux?

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Photo credit by Instagram User @decams_grands_wj

Lux is short for luminous flux.  Lux is the total amount of light that hits a surface.  Let’s take your vehicles backup lights as an example.  You just installed an LED bulb that shines about 500lm per bulb.  If you take a flat piece of card board that is roughly 1 square meter then your readings will measure to 500 lux per bulb for light hitting the card board.  If you step back a few feet to where the light then hits 4 square meters or 4 pieces of card board then it will divide total lumen or 500 lux by 4 and give you a lux reading of 125 lux per bulb.  This essentially reduces light concentration among each square meter but covers a larger surface area.

As mentioned earlier, there are several factors that come into play when measuring lux and some cars are not fully stock especially those who love to mod there vehicles.  Sometimes you have 4in lift kits that changes height, or an aftermarket housing that focus the light differently to increase lux.  Other examples would be distance or angle of the light emitted.

lux and lumens

Lux is the total amount of light that hits a surface.

For this reason, most automotive lighting manufacturers prefer to provide a lumen rating but if you go to a local hardware store and want to pick up a flash light or a bulb for your living room, the lux ratings are usually displayed since the scenarios are very common for those type of applications regardless of how they are used.  For automotive, it’s a different game due to the factors that come into play such as the housing, bulb design, and/or light source.

Lux is good to understand so you will know how far out your backup lights shine or even your LED light bars but remember the distance from the surface and angle of the beam are the most common factors that will determine actual lux readings.

What is Candela?

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Candela is a professional term for candle power.  Candela is another unit of measure for light and not something automotive manufacturers prefer to use but definitely good to understand for anything related to lighting such as aftermarket automotive LEDs.  Candela is an obsolete unit of measure of light due to lumen ratings, however, for applications like law enforcement vehicles and/or aviation vessels are categories where this is used.  This would benefit other applications that need light noticeability or to be seen at a distance.

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High candela ratings are essential for lamps found in planes, helicopters, and emergency type vehicles.

Candela is the measurement to describe how bright the light source is.  You are probably thinking, “Is this not the same as lumens?”  There is definitely a difference between both. Lumens is total light emitted.  Candela is total light emitted that is visible at a distance to understand how bright the light source is capable of.   You can say candela is a way to describe brightness rather than how much light is emitted.  1 Candela is equivalent to light emitted by 1 candle.

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1 Candela is equivalent to light emitted by 1 candle.

A better way to understand candela is to take a laser pointer as an example.  The light from a laser will not be bright at all.  If you back up a 100 feet or so, you will still be able to see the light from the laser at a distance since all light emitted is concentrated to a single and small area.  Even at a distance, the concentration of light is still focused to a small area allowing you to see the laser.  The candle power, or candela will be very high, however, lumen and lux ratings will be low.

Next time you are in the market to upgrade your lamps to LED, don’t just scratch your head and research to figure this out.  Let us do the work for you!  We can guide you and help you find the best LED light source for your car to help improve drive safety, visibility, and brilliance.

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Photo credit by Instagram Sponsor @uptomyassinbrass.

And remember….

‘LED JDM ASTAR light your way on the road!”

-JDM ASTAR Team

 

LED chip placement and why it is essential to your headlights

Achieving brighter results with aftermarket LED headlights is a given with practically any option available on the market.  With aftermarket LED, however, brighter is not always better choice for your car.

In our years of experience in the auto industry, we have come across many designs that will utilize diodes on several sides of the LED bulb and some extremely odd designs that even introduce a projector lens inside the headlight assembly.  These are neat designs and all but which ones work better for your housing?  Maybe you have projector lens that are retrofitted, or a traditional reflector housing that most cars come with from the factory.

Again, brighter is not always the better choice as you will lose a lot of intensity and focus with a design that does not mimic the same light source position (and size!) as the filament when using the factory lamps.  Sure, the bulb will be extremely bright outside of the housing, but you need it to be bright down the road as well!  What good is it to have a very bright bulb that does not focus the beam correctly?  And, it must also project a beam pattern so that the higher light intensity does not distort any oncoming traffic or blind others through their rear-view mirrors.

The LED chip placement and physical size is essential to both the light pattern and focus of the beam.

 

So how exactly do you achieve this?

It’s simple!  Use a light source that retains the same physical size and chip placement as the factory filament.

8th Gen Focal Point

 

Why is this necessary? 

Well, an easier way, for anybody, to understand (and explain) why this is essential to your light pattern is to take a hand-held flashlight as an example.  Flashlights have an adjustable knob to allow you to adjust the focus and help concentrate the light to a single area.  The housing has been scientifically measured to use the light source in the exact position to create a proper beam that works well with the adjustment feature and reflective properties of the housing.  The adjustment, essentially, just moves the light source in and out of the housing.

To get a wider light spectrum, you have to bring the light source closer to the lens by twisting it one way and you will see the light pattern begin to spread as well as begin to reduce the light intensity, however, you cover a larger area where light is hitting.

Flashlight spread

Light spectrum covers a larger surface area with reduced intensity

If you twist it in the opposite direction, the light source moves deeper in the housing creating more focus and reduces to a smaller area allowing more light to concentrate.

Flashlight focused

Light pattern is focused and concentrated to a smaller area for a sharp beam pattern.

The intensity also begins to increase due to where the light is being concentrated.

Here are how the patterns may appear for flashlights and it’s a similar concept when comparing to diode position and size with aftermarket LED headlights.

 

It is a similar concept with aftermarket LED headlights.

If you introduce multiple light source to the handheld flashlight, the added light source will project its own beam and work differently with the adjustment feature and the reflector.  Aside from the original bulb in the flashlight, the added light source will also cast its own beam and you will see the focus and concentration change as the bulbs adjusted in focus.  This is when you begin to see dark spotting, and some hot spots where the two light patterns overlap and provide light concentration.  This works for a handheld flashlight, but not when you are operating your vehicle with other drivers where safety is very important and regulations are in place to ensure the safety of yourself and others driving around you.

With aftermarket LED headlights, if you introduce more light sources, it will begin to change the focus and concentration of the light beam.  In a sense, it’s almost like you are putting in multiple bulbs to the housing and if you have more than 1 bulb, well, you can image what type of light pattern you will see as every bulb will begin to cast its own pattern creating the same dark spotting and hot spots as described above.

For most headlight housings, an optimal LED headlight bulb should be able to emit light evenly in the housing so that it provides symmetrical light coverage in the housing.  One side cannot be brighter than the other and the diodes should be in a similar position to the filament to be as close to the factory filament as possible.

Two sided LED headlights are, by far, the best options to be using for all types of headlight housings as they will allow a symmetrical light disbursement versus designs that introduce multiple sides like our G1/G2 series headlights or those very weird headlights we have seen from many China manufacturers that use 4 sides or even a projector lens!

 

The physical size of the diodes are another important factor!

The housing, whether it’s a reflector, or projector, has been manufactured and design to work with the bulb it includes.  If you change out the bulb, you want to keep the light source the same both in physical size and placement, compared to the factory bulb to retain the original light pattern.  The housing has been scientifically measured to project the best pattern and provide the best focus through that light source size and position.  By using this position, it allows an optimal light pattern for the headlight housing whether you are at 10 feet or 150 feet away from a wall or another driver.

So next time you are driving with your factory headlights on, ask yourself?  Would you prefer brighter results with ‘who-knows’ what type of light pattern you will see, but the bulb is bright, or would you prefer to keep the same light pattern you have now, but reap all the benefits of LED technology.

Beam on the road

Properly oriented LED headlights with a light source that mimics filament position and size provides a focused beam pattern.

If you are not sure about what option is best for your headlight application, give the guys at JDM a call!

We can guide you in finding the best LED lighting solution for not just the driver, and the car, but for the headlight housing as well.

‘JDM ASTAR…making America bright again!”

Fans or Heat sinks. Which one is better for your LED Headlights?

Aftermarket LED Headlights are available in various designs and now have many options in color, and output. One thing that most of these headlights have in common is how they are cooled.  Most economical or strong output LED headlights will utilize a fan, and the more efficient options will utilize a passive heat sink as a form of cooling the diodes.

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So what is better to use in your car?

This is an excellent question and we are sure most have come across.  Both are equally beneficial and we do not believe one is bad over the other as they both provide there advantages.

The best option is what caters most to the vehicle, and the driver.

By vehicle, it depends on the vehicle, the bulb size, how the factory bulb is secured, and the overall clearance available.

Here are two examples:

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(Sponsored 2015 Scion FRS by Armani Camacho IG: @frslow_armani)

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(Fellow JDM Astar team members personal daily driver vehicle)

By driver, it comes down to how long you intend to use your LED headlights, how much intensity you are looking for and where you would be driving through that will expose the headlights to different driving conditions such as snow, off road, or extreme weather.

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(Ayrton Senna da Silva was a Brazilian racing driver who won three Formula One world championships for McLaren in 1988, 1990 and 1991, and is widely regarded as one of the greatest Formula One drivers of all time.)

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(Big rig drivers or construction drivers drive and need lighting on nightly runs.)

 

A passive heat sink is the next big thing for automotive LED technology.

Passive heat sink designs tend to utilize a bulky metal heat sink that provides surface area for heat to dissipate through.  New designs offer thermal radiation through bendable fins or braided aluminum strips.  Passive heat sink headlights offer the following advantages:

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(NX Series LED Headlights with full aluminum body with a passive heat sink design)

Durability.  A passive heat sink is only capable to dissipating so much heat.  Due to the rate of cooling, the diodes and internal drivers must be durable and capable of handling higher temperatures.  Since cooling is not as fast, the diodes should be a premium type diode, or branded as to allow the ratio of lumens to wattage to be unaffected.  Branded diodes come directly from popular sources in the United States such as Philips, CREE, and other manufacturers.  The quality is higher is lumen to wattage ratio and efficiency will be high.

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(Philips Luxeon ZES offer high heat resistance and lumen to wattage ratio.)

No mechanical parts.  Heat sinks are made of solid alloy aluminum and some heat sinks may use different grades of aluminum for increasing thermal radiation.  Since there are not mechanical parts moving on the bulb, the LED will not make any noise and run silently.  The headlight can be exposed to off road conditions or conditions where there are lot of back/dirt roads where gravel or any type of debris kicks up.  With a heat sink, there is no concern for moisture to wet the fan and begin to accumulate dust and debris.  If you go mudding with your Jeep and the heat sink is caked on and full of mud then simply give it a rinse and go on about your day.

 

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(6S headlights use a flexible thermal heat sink with no mechanical fans)

Higher efficiency.  With heat sinks cooling rate being slower compared to a motorized fan, efficiency is key with this type of LED lamp.  Usually, the higher the output, the higher the driver power.  The higher the driver power, the more heat stress that is applied on the diodes. Since a heat sink can only provide a limited rate of cooling, the internal IC driver must be able to provide adequate lighting with minimal power consumption as to help maintain heat output to a minimal.  Also, the higher the efficiency the longer the operating times and lifespan.

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(Smart IC drivers offer the best drive power and efficiency for aftermarket LED headlights.)

Fans still hold the title as an optimal option for cooling any aftermarket LED. 

 

These fans definitely have their advantages over heat sink designs such as:

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Intensity.  With a fan that is capable of providing a higher rate of heat dissipation and cooling, there is a wider lighting spectrum in the intensity you can play with.  With a faster cooling mechanism, you can drive more power to the diodes to reach an intensity rating that is substantially higher.  Whether you need stronger lighting for commercial or work usage, or simply want something slick for a stance or show car, mechanical fans are definitely a good choice when seeking the brightest option possible.

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(G4 headlight low and high combo.  Get two sets at a similar cost of a premium set LED headlights.)

Fits any budget! Since high velocity fans are one of the first technologies introduced in the automotive LED lighting industry for cooling and with all the latest innovations that technology has, of course the cost will be lower.  Earlier technologies tend to retain a reduce cost from how they were sold when they first hit the market.  With new options for cooling being introduced, the earlier options will retain a lower value or cost since there is something newer or better available.  This allows anybody to try an LED headlight for their vehicle so if you are not sure and do not want to make a hefty investment but would like to improve lighting and drive safety, this is definitely the route to take.  You will certainly have options that fit any budget!

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(As heat radiates from the diodes, the fan is already extracting heat to maintain optimal temperatures.)

Can handle longer operating times.  Since day one that LED technology was invented, one thing that they have always had in common is the resistance to heat.  LED is just not too fond of heat as they are electronic components and fail in high temps.  They are not built like a filament bulb that translate a majority of the power used to heat, but rather take the power used to convert it to usable light.  With LED having a heat threshold, its essential to the life and operating time that the cooling mechanism is effective and capable of keeping up with heat emitted.  With fans being substantially faster at cooling any type of diode, it is the preferred choice to use in situations where power is driven to the LED circuit for prolonged amount of time.  A good example is a snow plow, or construction vehicles. These scenarios call for a headlight that can cool itself at the same rate that heat is being emitted which only a high velocity fan can deliver.

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(NX Series Headlights for low beam, or high beams that feature a passive heat sink)

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(Turbo Fan Series LED Headlights that push air flow for even faster cooling.)

Here at JDM ASTAR, we provide various options and designs.  We cater to every scenario, car, and driver.  Our various designs have continuously delivered and surpassed expectations for years and going so if there is something that does not work or fit well in your case, you best believe that we will have a solution available that not only caters to your car but caters to your safety and driving needs.

If you have questions about what to use?  Give the guys at JDM a call and they will gladly provide guidance in identifying your driving conditions and recommend a solution that will improve your experience in car lighting.

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