Understanding Lumen, Lux, and Candela

You just got a new car and are eager to throw in some new LED headlights.  You find a source and see ‘4000 lumens per bulb’ and are probably scratching your head wondering, “What are lumens?”

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This is a question we see often and it’s definitely something to be looking at when planning on upgrading any lamps to an aftermarket LED bulb.

First, you must understand that there is more than 1 method to measure light and certain methods call for a specific scenario in order to understand how to measure the light to give you an idea of what type of lighting results you will see.

The most common methods at measuring light are Lumens, Lux and Candela.

What are Lumens?

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Lumens is total amount of light emitted by the light source.

Lumens is the preferred method to measure light for most manufacturers that produce aftermarket LED products as this is the simplest to calculate for most and easiest to understand for any professional mechanic or auto enthusiast that is new to the industry.

Lumens is the unit of measure of light which provides a total rating for light that is visible to the human eye or the total amount of light emitted by the source for short.  A flash light can produce an average of 1000-1500 lumens which gives you an idea of how much it will throw.  Most of our LED headlights produce an average of 4,000 lumens and go as low as 2,000 lumens or as high as 6,000 lumens depending on the design and what you need for your vehicle.  Smaller LEDs for interior produce an average of 50-220 lumens.  For aftermarket LEDs, lumens is the total amount of light being emitted by the diodes.

What is Lux?

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Photo credit by Instagram User @decams_grands_wj

Lux is short for luminous flux.  Lux is the total amount of light that hits a surface.  Let’s take your vehicles backup lights as an example.  You just installed an LED bulb that shines about 500lm per bulb.  If you take a flat piece of card board that is roughly 1 square meter then your readings will measure to 500 lux per bulb for light hitting the card board.  If you step back a few feet to where the light then hits 4 square meters or 4 pieces of card board then it will divide total lumen or 500 lux by 4 and give you a lux reading of 125 lux per bulb.  This essentially reduces light concentration among each square meter but covers a larger surface area.

As mentioned earlier, there are several factors that come into play when measuring lux and some cars are not fully stock especially those who love to mod there vehicles.  Sometimes you have 4in lift kits that changes height, or an aftermarket housing that focus the light differently to increase lux.  Other examples would be distance or angle of the light emitted.

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Lux is the total amount of light that hits a surface.

For this reason, most automotive lighting manufacturers prefer to provide a lumen rating but if you go to a local hardware store and want to pick up a flash light or a bulb for your living room, the lux ratings are usually displayed since the scenarios are very common for those type of applications regardless of how they are used.  For automotive, it’s a different game due to the factors that come into play such as the housing, bulb design, and/or light source.

Lux is good to understand so you will know how far out your backup lights shine or even your LED light bars but remember the distance from the surface and angle of the beam are the most common factors that will determine actual lux readings.

What is Candela?

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Candela is a professional term for candle power.  Candela is another unit of measure for light and not something automotive manufacturers prefer to use but definitely good to understand for anything related to lighting such as aftermarket automotive LEDs.  Candela is an obsolete unit of measure of light due to lumen ratings, however, for applications like law enforcement vehicles and/or aviation vessels are categories where this is used.  This would benefit other applications that need light noticeability or to be seen at a distance.

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High candela ratings are essential for lamps found in planes, helicopters, and emergency type vehicles.

Candela is the measurement to describe how bright the light source is.  You are probably thinking, “Is this not the same as lumens?”  There is definitely a difference between both. Lumens is total light emitted.  Candela is total light emitted that is visible at a distance to understand how bright the light source is capable of.   You can say candela is a way to describe brightness rather than how much light is emitted.  1 Candela is equivalent to light emitted by 1 candle.

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1 Candela is equivalent to light emitted by 1 candle.

A better way to understand candela is to take a laser pointer as an example.  The light from a laser will not be bright at all.  If you back up a 100 feet or so, you will still be able to see the light from the laser at a distance since all light emitted is concentrated to a single and small area.  Even at a distance, the concentration of light is still focused to a small area allowing you to see the laser.  The candle power, or candela will be very high, however, lumen and lux ratings will be low.

Next time you are in the market to upgrade your lamps to LED, don’t just scratch your head and research to figure this out.  Let us do the work for you!  We can guide you and help you find the best LED light source for your car to help improve drive safety, visibility, and brilliance.

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Photo credit by Instagram Sponsor @uptomyassinbrass.

And remember….

‘LED JDM ASTAR light your way on the road!”

-JDM ASTAR Team

 

LED chip placement and why it is essential to your headlights

Achieving brighter results with aftermarket LED headlights is a given with practically any option available on the market.  With aftermarket LED, however, brighter is not always better choice for your car.

In our years of experience in the auto industry, we have come across many designs that will utilize diodes on several sides of the LED bulb and some extremely odd designs that even introduce a projector lens inside the headlight assembly.  These are neat designs and all but which ones work better for your housing?  Maybe you have projector lens that are retrofitted, or a traditional reflector housing that most cars come with from the factory.

Again, brighter is not always the better choice as you will lose a lot of intensity and focus with a design that does not mimic the same light source position (and size!) as the filament when using the factory lamps.  Sure, the bulb will be extremely bright outside of the housing, but you need it to be bright down the road as well!  What good is it to have a very bright bulb that does not focus the beam correctly?  And, it must also project a beam pattern so that the higher light intensity does not distort any oncoming traffic or blind others through their rear-view mirrors.

The LED chip placement and physical size is essential to both the light pattern and focus of the beam.

 

So how exactly do you achieve this?

It’s simple!  Use a light source that retains the same physical size and chip placement as the factory filament.

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Why is this necessary? 

Well, an easier way, for anybody, to understand (and explain) why this is essential to your light pattern is to take a hand-held flashlight as an example.  Flashlights have an adjustable knob to allow you to adjust the focus and help concentrate the light to a single area.  The housing has been scientifically measured to use the light source in the exact position to create a proper beam that works well with the adjustment feature and reflective properties of the housing.  The adjustment, essentially, just moves the light source in and out of the housing.

To get a wider light spectrum, you have to bring the light source closer to the lens by twisting it one way and you will see the light pattern begin to spread as well as begin to reduce the light intensity, however, you cover a larger area where light is hitting.

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Light spectrum covers a larger surface area with reduced intensity

If you twist it in the opposite direction, the light source moves deeper in the housing creating more focus and reduces to a smaller area allowing more light to concentrate.

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Light pattern is focused and concentrated to a smaller area for a sharp beam pattern.

The intensity also begins to increase due to where the light is being concentrated.

Here are how the patterns may appear for flashlights and it’s a similar concept when comparing to diode position and size with aftermarket LED headlights.

 

It is a similar concept with aftermarket LED headlights.

If you introduce multiple light source to the handheld flashlight, the added light source will project its own beam and work differently with the adjustment feature and the reflector.  Aside from the original bulb in the flashlight, the added light source will also cast its own beam and you will see the focus and concentration change as the bulbs adjusted in focus.  This is when you begin to see dark spotting, and some hot spots where the two light patterns overlap and provide light concentration.  This works for a handheld flashlight, but not when you are operating your vehicle with other drivers where safety is very important and regulations are in place to ensure the safety of yourself and others driving around you.

With aftermarket LED headlights, if you introduce more light sources, it will begin to change the focus and concentration of the light beam.  In a sense, it’s almost like you are putting in multiple bulbs to the housing and if you have more than 1 bulb, well, you can image what type of light pattern you will see as every bulb will begin to cast its own pattern creating the same dark spotting and hot spots as described above.

For most headlight housings, an optimal LED headlight bulb should be able to emit light evenly in the housing so that it provides symmetrical light coverage in the housing.  One side cannot be brighter than the other and the diodes should be in a similar position to the filament to be as close to the factory filament as possible.

Two sided LED headlights are, by far, the best options to be using for all types of headlight housings as they will allow a symmetrical light disbursement versus designs that introduce multiple sides like our G1/G2 series headlights or those very weird headlights we have seen from many China manufacturers that use 4 sides or even a projector lens!

 

The physical size of the diodes are another important factor!

The housing, whether it’s a reflector, or projector, has been manufactured and design to work with the bulb it includes.  If you change out the bulb, you want to keep the light source the same both in physical size and placement, compared to the factory bulb to retain the original light pattern.  The housing has been scientifically measured to project the best pattern and provide the best focus through that light source size and position.  By using this position, it allows an optimal light pattern for the headlight housing whether you are at 10 feet or 150 feet away from a wall or another driver.

So next time you are driving with your factory headlights on, ask yourself?  Would you prefer brighter results with ‘who-knows’ what type of light pattern you will see, but the bulb is bright, or would you prefer to keep the same light pattern you have now, but reap all the benefits of LED technology.

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Properly oriented LED headlights with a light source that mimics filament position and size provides a focused beam pattern.

If you are not sure about what option is best for your headlight application, give the guys at JDM a call!

We can guide you in finding the best LED lighting solution for not just the driver, and the car, but for the headlight housing as well.

‘JDM ASTAR…making America bright again!”

Fans or Heat sinks. Which one is better for your LED Headlights?

Aftermarket LED Headlights are available in various designs and now have many options in color, and output. One thing that most of these headlights have in common is how they are cooled.  Most economical or strong output LED headlights will utilize a fan, and the more efficient options will utilize a passive heat sink as a form of cooling the diodes.

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So what is better to use in your car?

This is an excellent question and we are sure most have come across.  Both are equally beneficial and we do not believe one is bad over the other as they both provide there advantages.

The best option is what caters most to the vehicle, and the driver.

By vehicle, it depends on the vehicle, the bulb size, how the factory bulb is secured, and the overall clearance available.

Here are two examples:

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(Sponsored 2015 Scion FRS by Armani Camacho IG: @frslow_armani)

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(Fellow JDM Astar team members personal daily driver vehicle)

By driver, it comes down to how long you intend to use your LED headlights, how much intensity you are looking for and where you would be driving through that will expose the headlights to different driving conditions such as snow, off road, or extreme weather.

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(Ayrton Senna da Silva was a Brazilian racing driver who won three Formula One world championships for McLaren in 1988, 1990 and 1991, and is widely regarded as one of the greatest Formula One drivers of all time.)

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(Big rig drivers or construction drivers drive and need lighting on nightly runs.)

 

A passive heat sink is the next big thing for automotive LED technology.

Passive heat sink designs tend to utilize a bulky metal heat sink that provides surface area for heat to dissipate through.  New designs offer thermal radiation through bendable fins or braided aluminum strips.  Passive heat sink headlights offer the following advantages:

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(NX Series LED Headlights with full aluminum body with a passive heat sink design)

Durability.  A passive heat sink is only capable to dissipating so much heat.  Due to the rate of cooling, the diodes and internal drivers must be durable and capable of handling higher temperatures.  Since cooling is not as fast, the diodes should be a premium type diode, or branded as to allow the ratio of lumens to wattage to be unaffected.  Branded diodes come directly from popular sources in the United States such as Philips, CREE, and other manufacturers.  The quality is higher is lumen to wattage ratio and efficiency will be high.

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(Philips Luxeon ZES offer high heat resistance and lumen to wattage ratio.)

No mechanical parts.  Heat sinks are made of solid alloy aluminum and some heat sinks may use different grades of aluminum for increasing thermal radiation.  Since there are not mechanical parts moving on the bulb, the LED will not make any noise and run silently.  The headlight can be exposed to off road conditions or conditions where there are lot of back/dirt roads where gravel or any type of debris kicks up.  With a heat sink, there is no concern for moisture to wet the fan and begin to accumulate dust and debris.  If you go mudding with your Jeep and the heat sink is caked on and full of mud then simply give it a rinse and go on about your day.

 

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(6S headlights use a flexible thermal heat sink with no mechanical fans)

Higher efficiency.  With heat sinks cooling rate being slower compared to a motorized fan, efficiency is key with this type of LED lamp.  Usually, the higher the output, the higher the driver power.  The higher the driver power, the more heat stress that is applied on the diodes. Since a heat sink can only provide a limited rate of cooling, the internal IC driver must be able to provide adequate lighting with minimal power consumption as to help maintain heat output to a minimal.  Also, the higher the efficiency the longer the operating times and lifespan.

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(Smart IC drivers offer the best drive power and efficiency for aftermarket LED headlights.)

Fans still hold the title as an optimal option for cooling any aftermarket LED. 

 

These fans definitely have their advantages over heat sink designs such as:

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Intensity.  With a fan that is capable of providing a higher rate of heat dissipation and cooling, there is a wider lighting spectrum in the intensity you can play with.  With a faster cooling mechanism, you can drive more power to the diodes to reach an intensity rating that is substantially higher.  Whether you need stronger lighting for commercial or work usage, or simply want something slick for a stance or show car, mechanical fans are definitely a good choice when seeking the brightest option possible.

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(G4 headlight low and high combo.  Get two sets at a similar cost of a premium set LED headlights.)

Fits any budget! Since high velocity fans are one of the first technologies introduced in the automotive LED lighting industry for cooling and with all the latest innovations that technology has, of course the cost will be lower.  Earlier technologies tend to retain a reduce cost from how they were sold when they first hit the market.  With new options for cooling being introduced, the earlier options will retain a lower value or cost since there is something newer or better available.  This allows anybody to try an LED headlight for their vehicle so if you are not sure and do not want to make a hefty investment but would like to improve lighting and drive safety, this is definitely the route to take.  You will certainly have options that fit any budget!

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(As heat radiates from the diodes, the fan is already extracting heat to maintain optimal temperatures.)

Can handle longer operating times.  Since day one that LED technology was invented, one thing that they have always had in common is the resistance to heat.  LED is just not too fond of heat as they are electronic components and fail in high temps.  They are not built like a filament bulb that translate a majority of the power used to heat, but rather take the power used to convert it to usable light.  With LED having a heat threshold, its essential to the life and operating time that the cooling mechanism is effective and capable of keeping up with heat emitted.  With fans being substantially faster at cooling any type of diode, it is the preferred choice to use in situations where power is driven to the LED circuit for prolonged amount of time.  A good example is a snow plow, or construction vehicles. These scenarios call for a headlight that can cool itself at the same rate that heat is being emitted which only a high velocity fan can deliver.

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(NX Series Headlights for low beam, or high beams that feature a passive heat sink)

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(Turbo Fan Series LED Headlights that push air flow for even faster cooling.)

Here at JDM ASTAR, we provide various options and designs.  We cater to every scenario, car, and driver.  Our various designs have continuously delivered and surpassed expectations for years and going so if there is something that does not work or fit well in your case, you best believe that we will have a solution available that not only caters to your car but caters to your safety and driving needs.

If you have questions about what to use?  Give the guys at JDM a call and they will gladly provide guidance in identifying your driving conditions and recommend a solution that will improve your experience in car lighting.

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Headlights that fit your budget….Welcome the G4 series headlights!

g4 2.jpgUpgrading to aftermarket LED lighting on your car can come off as a bit of a concern for some.  It can certainly look intimidating, at first, especially for those that may not have the experience or tools to work on their cars.

When automotive LED made its way into the industry, costs very high and as the market began to grow, competition went up and so many brands or sellers began to offer the actual value of the product they are selling and in order to continue offering such a competitive price, they must take short cuts on quality in order to meet the demand.

This exposed the LED market and eventually gave aftermarket LEDs a bad rep.  Nowadays, any time you see an inexpensive LED headlight option on Amazon, you are very cautious about buying yet alone installing them to your vehicle.

JDM Astar is here to help address that concern for those worried about short cuts on quality or risking a bulb failure that leads to hefty repairs on your cars.  Short cuts or low quality is just not part of what we do.  JDM Astar innovates and we WILL continue to innovate in order to create a foundation of what an aftermarket LED brand should represent.

With competition growing online, we have released a budget-friendly option that will provide quality, reliability, and give you the results you long for and need.  JDM has introduced the G4 headlights to their lineup of replacement headlights.

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The G4 series headlights sets the foundation for starter LED headlight kits. They offer aviation grade aluminum that increases density and allows more heat to radiate through the body of the bulb thus increasing how fast the diodes cool down.  Combined with a high velocity fan that clocks at 1200RPM, you will have an LED lamp that will sustain itself without any concern of overheating the diodes or damaging the driver’s circuit.  With a reduced load draw, compared to most low end headlights from foreign or unknown brands, you will achieve higher efficiency thus minimizing how much heat is generated by the diodes.

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Now of course, cooling mechanism is one of the factors that ensures your LEDs operate long but another factor is the light source.  The light source is key as we have come across many sources that claim to carry genuine diodes from branded manufacturers, but when you check the facts, you realize that they are falsely advertising what they use on there products. If don’t believe us, look up the cheapest LED headlight and check the light source manufactures lineup of diodes they offer. You’d be surprise what you will find with just a little bit of research!

A good example would be claiming your lamp is using CREE chips.  CREE is a manufacturer in the US and there costs for parts are not exactly competitive so this would reflect on the cost of the LED lamp you are buying and is typically combined with high grade components such as heat sinks, and Smart IC Drivers(whether external or internal).  Remember, if you hear a popular brand is being used as the light source with your LEDs, but costs are a bit too low, then be cautious and possibly steer away from that as you certainly do not want to experience the headache it may cause yet alone the risk of damaging your vehicles housing and/or wiring.

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The G4 headlights JDM Astar offers use customized type diodes and is exclusive from JDM Astar.  We are proud of this design and we call these diodes AEC chips which are a replication of what we use on our 8th Generation headlights, the Luxeon ZES chips.  Think of our AEC chips as a JDM brand version of ZES.  High quality, and value that fits the budget!  They offer high thermal resistance, low wattage consumption, and high load capacity all with a strong intensity rating of 4,000 lumens per lamp and lux readings averaging 4,150(@ 1 meter).

Next time you are on the market for your starter LED headlight kit, reach out to us!  We can guide you and find the perfect LED headlight that will surpass expectations all while saving you money so you can upgrade even more lights on your car!

JDM ASTAR….lighting up your world, one car at a time!

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Using aftermarket LED headlights on Toyota’s with DRL/High Beam applications

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Daytime running lights are a lamps that are automatically controlled by your vehicles system and typically run during the day and is shared to the same high beam bulb but at a reduced intensity.  Some cars have dedicated daytime running lights that are separate from the headlamp applications.  If your vehicle’s DRL is separate then your car is one of the lucky few that will never run into a flickering problem on the DRL system when running aftermarket LED headlamps.

For those that have experienced a dreadful flicker on their Toyota, this article may be geared towards your situation.

First, you must understand how a daytime running light system works.  You know what it is, but how does it turn on?

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Most vehicles will be programmed to meet certain conditions in order for the DRL system to actually turn on.  The headlight switch must be set to AUTO, gear must be in DRIVE or not PARK, and there will usually be a sensor on the vehicle’s dashboard which detects light.  Once the conditions are met, your vehicles system will immediately supply a reduced current to dim the factory high beam bulb.  This applies to most Toyota’s with DRL’s and high beams on the same circuit.  To understand if your vehicle runs high beams and DRLs on the same lamps, you may either physical test the lamps or consult the owner’s manual.  You may also reach out to JDM Astar for any guidance.

Once the DRL system engages, BOOM!  You get the fast flicker on your LED headlights!

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So how do you fix this flickering issue as it is not controlled by a CANBUS system that is monitoring the lamps for problems?

Well, the fix is very simple and after extensive research and testing of various model Toyota’s with DRL systems, we have determined that Toyota runs a pulsing system where the voltage supplied is roughly 10V-12V but pulses on and off very fast which causes an LED lamp, that is sensitive to power, to light up and shut off quickly.  This only works with older model lamps like incandescent or halogen as it will never allow the burning filament, of a factory bulb, to light up to full intensity or shut off completely.  The pulsing signal keeps the bulb in a dim state.  We now have a solution for you to allow you to run aftermarket LED headlights!

JDM Astar offers a decoder module that is actually designed for CANBUS but will also bypass voltage changes that pulse on DRL systems shared with high beam headlamps.

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How does the decoder work?

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Our decoder features a built-in capacitor. A capacitor will hold a small amount of charge that will allow the current supplied to the headlight bulb to be steady thus preventing the pulsing voltage from having any effect on the diodes of the LED lamp.  Since LEDs are very sensitive to power, a pulsing voltage will also cause the diodes to flicker at the same rate that it’s pulsing.  A capacitor will also simulate a much larger amperage which will also take care of a lamp out indicator that is either triggered by the vehicles circuit, or in some cases, a CANBUS system.

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If your Toyota happens to have a high beam lamp and DRL running on the same bulb and circuit then make sure you pick up a decoder harness from JDM ASTAR.  They are plug & play and will save you a headache, as well as a traffic stop citation.  If you ever have any questions or need guidance, contact us.  Our friendly and knowledgeable representatives will be glad to assist you on resolving flickering issues on your Toyota and remember….

“LED JDM ASTAR light your way on the road!”

-JDM ASTAR Team

Which way should the chips face on your LED headlights?

This is a question that we are starting to see more and more and we are sure that this has made its way into your mind at one point.  We have had our fair share of poor light patterns from off branded LED’s and have seen surprising results with even premium headlights from reputable brands that shine even worse.  Before we get into this, you must understand that the vehicle manufacturer of your car, truck, or SUV have scientifically measured the lamp housing to determine what is the best light source to include and how it will project the light pattern without jeopardizing safety and improve driving visibility and noticeability.  These are all things that are in mind when your lamp housings are being designed.

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Bottom line, your lamp housings are designed for what they came with.  Cars that come with HID’s probably come with projector housings, and vehicles with reflective housings will have a halogen, incandescent, or something new we have not seen.  This means that your aftermarket LED lighting system may not project the same type of pattern or amount of light.  Factory halogen bulbs shine light in a true 360 orientation to evenly distribute light throughout the lamp housing and really take advantage of the reflective properties of the fixture.  So, if the lamp housings are designed for halogens, and projectors for HID’s, how do you obtain a safe and usable light pattern when going to aftermarket LED?

With our LED headlight products, we have designed our LED lamps to provide the best light disbursement inside the lamp housing by shining light in two different directions; side to side or 3 o’clock & 9 o’clock.  Most vehicles housings will provide optimal results when using a side to side orientation or having the LED chips face left to right.  Some of our other designs cater more to the intensity of the light beam and may feature an extra side where diodes are mounted. We address the proper orientation through the following chart.  We show the proper orientation for dual beam and single beam LED headlights and provide a side view to show how the bulb should be positioned inside the housing.  The orientation is the same for most aftermarket LED headlights that are single or dual beam setups.

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Here are few things to consider when going to LED:

  • 2-sided LED headlights for single beams should have the LED chips facing left to right.
  • 2-sided LED Headlights for dual beam applications will have a shield which should always be sitting below the low beams chips. The orientation must be side to side for optimal results.
  • Headlights that use a unique triangular design or have 3 sides, to cater more to light intensity, will feature a 3rd side for high beams which should always be facing in a downward position or a 6 o’clock orientation.

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Now the real question is, how do you get around changing the orientation when the headlights are positioned incorrectly once installed and no way to adjust.  With options like our 8th Generation headlights, you can now obtain optimal results through an adjustable collar feature.  We have also integrated this feature on dual beam LED headlights such as our G series, or 7S headlights.  We have an option to cater not just to one car, but every car in the world so if your pattern is bit off, stop by our site or give us call.  We will help you obtain the best results possible so that you may go about your day with your loved ones.  Your safety is priority and our priority is your safety so LED us light your way down the road…..”

 

-JDM ASTAR Team

Using LED with a CAN Bus System

You have heard once before, and you will hear it again.  “What is a CAN bus system?”  A CAN bus is a “Controller Area Network” vehicle bus which interconnects components inside a vehicle.  A CAN bus is like an on board diagnostics system that runs upon turning the ignition and while the vehicle’s operating.  The system also monitors your vehicles applications such as lighting.  A CAN Bus system is equipped with the vehicle to alert a driver of a problem with the normal functionality of an application or their vehicle.  A lot of 3rd parties indicate that it only monitors your lighting applications, which they do, but they also monitor everything else that may be considered a safety hazard should the part, component, or application fail or begin to malfunction in a manner that is considered abnormal.  A CAN bus system can be frustrating or cause malfunctions but they are an essential system to have on your vehicle.  We created this article to help you understand how to make your lamps function properly without a worry of a dreadful lamp out indicator or flicker.

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The main reason why a CAN bus system cannot detect an LED bulb is due to the power draw (current) of the lamp application or resistance change.  By upgrading your lighting application, whether interior or exterior, you are decreasing the power draw substantially.  It may vary between vehicles, but a CAN bus system (or any similar system) is designed to function a certain amount of power (current), voltage, resistance or amperage of the different applications on the vehicle including lights and by installing an LED bulb, it may recognize the bulb as a fault or opened circuit.(burnt out bulb)  These type of systems are not designed to work with the current of an LED replacement.  They will not be able to distinguish the difference between an actual ‘burnt out’ halogen bulb, and a new upgraded LED so an error code or lamp out indicator may be triggered.  Some cases it will cut power to the application which will result in a sudden flicker then shutting off.  So how do you solve or avoid this malfunction?

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The solution is very simple, for most vehicles.  JDM Astar offers “error-free” LED replacements in various sizes from 921 (T15), 1156 bayonet size, and all the way to bulb sizes for headlamps.  They come equipped with built-in decoders.  A decoder (or anti-flicker harness) is a module that is designed to counter or fix CAN bus related problems and they feature a built-in capacitor to keep the LED’s charged (prevents flickering).  The decoder will also increase amperage which will allow the system to detect the lamp (prevents lamp out indicator).  There is also added resistance to allow the vehicle’s circuit normal functionality and ensure the LED’s are receiving proper current.

You can also take the simple route and add resistors which will allow the bulb to simulate a much larger current draw which for most cars will fix a problem triggered by the system.

Another great option is to use an “Error Free” LED which for the most part is designed for vehicles equipped with CAN bus.  With Error Free LED’s, they will feature resistors within the bulbs circuit to allow a larger current draw, however, this type of setup has its limitations on how much can be drawn.  There are certain makers and/or model vehicles that are programmed to detect a much larger current than what a CAN bus-ready LED bulb has to offer.  They may still trigger an error code so then the proper load must be applied to the vehicles circuit by wiring in a resistor.  You can do this by installing resistors to the ground and lead wires.  Resistors will draw out the difference in power to simulate the power draw of your halogen bulb.

If your vehicle is built with a CAN bus system, then don’t worry.  We have an arsenal of solutions waiting for you to resolve any minor issue with your vehicle’s CAN bus system and LED replacements.  If you run into a problem, we are here to help.  We can help you find the perfect LED replacement so that you will have an error-free experience.

-JDM Astar Team